The mighty Natal Drakensberg is essentially a sheer kilometer high wall that stretches almost unbroken for 280kms from Royal Natal in the North to Bushmans Nek in the South. At an average height of around 3000m above sea level the summit plateaux is a wild and rugged place. The alpine vegetation is stunted and the only people hardy enough to inhabit the area are the few Basotho herders that venture into the highlands in summer while venturing back to the safety of lower elevation in winter. Most of area is conserved and is known as the uKhahlamba Drakensberg Park which has recently been proclaimed a World Heritage Site.

The dramatic vistas, free standing peaks and haunting abysses make the Drakensberg a Hikers paradise. Over the last few years the summit trek from Royal Natal to Bushmans Nek has become the ultimate challenge among hikers. Known as the Grand Traverse the route takes you through some of the wildest and most beautiful terrain on the continent. The 280km can be covered in as little as eight days for the super fit but twelve days seems to be the norm. The challenge of the traverse is not only the distance, but the terrain. There are few paths, and the ones you encounter are usually going either East into KwaZulu Natal or West into the Lesotho highlands. Because of the North-South nature of the route you will find yourself climbing and descending steep ridges day after day. You will need all your navigational skills and wherever possible pre-program your intended route into a reliable GPS.

The trek is physically and emotionally draining, your stamina will certainly be tested but just when you feel you are at your breaking point the berg throws you a view that takes your breath away! Just when you think you can’t go on, you come across a towering spire or a waterfall that seems to plunge thousands of metres into thin air!. Sometimes nature shows herself in the form of a rare klipspringer , Cape Vulture or Lammergeyer. You also have the opportunity of scaling some famous peaks en route. Cleft Peak, Giants Castle Peak, Champagne Castle and The Rhino are just some of the summits that can be tackled not to mention the highest peak in South Africa – Mafadi 3450m and the Highest Peak in Southern Africa – Thabana Ntlenyana 3482m.

The high elevation of the route means firstly that your body will struggle to acclimatize for the first few days, Oxygen seems hard to come by but pretty soon your body learns to cope. Another factor that could mean the difference between success and failure is the weather. In winter summit temperatures can drop as low as minus 15 degrees, Snow is common albeit relatively predictable and problems with freezing liquids need to be tackled. Summer weather patterns are usually characterized by clear mild mornings, warm to hot days with violent afternoon thunderstorms. The best time to attempt the traverse in my opinion would be either April or October. During these months the weather is at its kindest. Remember that weather in the Drakensberg is extremely unpredictable and you have to prepare for all conditions. A few years ago the berg got snow on New Years Day!

If you are considering attempting the Grand Traverse I can offer the following advice:

• Plan your route, maps, GPS, compass – don’t cut corners and build in at least a day in case you become mist-bound. (We did). Try and get information and advice from hikers that have done the Traverse before. Don’t repeat their mistakes!
• One of the difficulties of such a long route is that it is virtually impossible to carry all your food and equipment. You will need to be re-supplied at least once. Giants Castle is roughly half way. Organise a reliable resupply party to meet you at the top of one of the passes in that area, I recommend the top of Langalibalele Pass. Another could be the top of Sani Pass but that only about two days from the finish.
• Whatever you do, don’t compromise on equipment. When your life depends on it you won’t mind paying the extra R300 on the best sleeping bag or tent. You will need quality warm and wet weather gear, a reputable mountain tent, quality sleeping bag and well worn in sturdy hiking boots. Lightweight but high energy food is also recommended. Hiking sticks are also useful due to the rugged ground and lack of paths.
• Digital Camera is essential; to capture the beauty you are going to need a big memory stick!
• Get to know the berg first, start with an easy weekend hike, then progress to a challenging three day summit hike. This will get your body used to the hiking conditions.
• Don’t rely on Summit caves as your overnight spot. Summit caves are notoriously hard to find even in the clearest of conditions.
• Complete the mountain rescue register carefully and completely, and don’t forget to sign out on your return.
• Most of the route follows the South African – Lesotho border. You will probably encounter a few Basothos on your way. Greet them politely and move on, the vast majority of people you encounter are friendly folk going about their business. Sadly there are hot spots along the route where hikers have had gear stolen. Wherever possible move away from recognized routes when setting up camp and bring all your gear into your tent at night.
• As a rule you should hike with at least four in your group. In case of an accident this allows one person to stay with the injured party while the other two go for help.
• Take in what you take out and use “leave no trace” principles.
• We found that most cellphone coverage was erratic to say the least. Generally though the further south we went the better it got.
• There are a number of excellent hiking clubs in KZN with experienced leaders. Some even attempt the Grand Traverse annually. If you are a first time hiker it is definitely advisable to join one of these clubs.

Here are examples of the type of routes you could try when planning for the Traverse;

Easy Route
5 Day Giants Cup Trail situated in the Southern Drakensberg. This route averages around 13km a day with all overnight spots in comfortable hiking huts. Its an excellent way of orientating yourself with the Berg.

Intermediate Route
Two day hike from Giants Castle Camp to Spare Rib Cave, up Bannerman Pass, across the summit plateaux to the summit of Langalibalele Pass and finally down the pass back to the camp. This is an excellent option as it will give you experience of two berg passes. It also gives you the opportunity of hiking at high altitude (high point of 3200m) and a snap shot of a mini traverse.

A variation to this route would be to continue from the summit of Langalibalele Pass south to Giants Pass and then to descend the pass and head back to the camp. This would add around two days to the duration of the hike.

About the author:
I started hiking in the berg at 16 years old and from then I became hooked. I decided that the berg had to play a big part in my life. Although an accountant by profession I was lucky enough to be employed by KZN Wildlife in 1993. I worked as part of the Drakensberg Management Team from 1994 to 2000 when I transferred to Head Office. In my time in the berg I was involved in all sorts of berg related activities including producing the new berg hiking maps. I put together the “Take a Hike” report for East Coast Radio and the KZN Wildlife website. I am still an active hiker and am based at KZN Wildlife’s head Office in Pietermaritzburg as their Commercial Operations Financial Manager although nothing delights me more that getting side tracked to handle hiking queries from visitors to the Drakensberg! I completed the Grand Traverse in 2002 with three colleagues. It was an experience I shall never forget! 

Mark Brassell